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The British response was initially guarded, but a full-scale battle soon ensued, destroying much of the surrounding area and heavily damaging rebel-held buildings elsewhere in the city. It took five days for the rebellion to be suppressed and its leaders captured. Dubliners decried the uprising at its outset, dismayed by the devastation ravaged upon their city by the fighting. In the process, the British created national martyrs, transforming the situation irrevocably and ultimately leading to a bitter war of independence. Perhaps no other writer has so encapsulated the life, lore and mores of his native city as James Joyce so successfully achieved in his remarkable novels, most notably Ulysses This annual pilgrimage undertaken by Joycean aficionados across the city has become known as Bloomsday.

Though you can undertake to cover the Bloomsday route independently a Ulysses map is available from the Dublin Tourism Centre , guided walks are organized by the James Joyce Centre. Not long after meeting a Connemara-born chambermaid, Nora Barnacle, having first dated her on June 16, , the pair eloped to Europe. Other than two brief visits to Ireland, Joyce spent the rest of his life in exile living in cities across Europe — in Pola now Pula in Istria, Trieste, Zurich and, notably, Paris, where Ulysses was published in and he finally wed Nora in On a ridge above the Liffey, where previously the Vikings had established themselves, the Anglo-Norman invaders rebuilt Dublin in the thirteenth century around a doughty castle.

The castle was the seat of British power in Ireland for seven hundred years, after its establishment by the Anglo-Normans in the early thirteenth century as the main element of their walled city, and successfully withstood all attempts to take it by force. It did, however, succumb to a major fire in and was rebuilt during the eighteenth century as a complex of residential and administrative buildings over two quadrangles, giving a sedate collegiate appearance.

The outline of the medieval castle is traced by the Upper Yard; above its original main gate, the Cork Hill State Entrance, stands a statue of Justice, wearing no blindfold and turning her back on the city — a fitting symbol of British rule, locals reckon. Built as the residence of the English viceroy and entered from the Upper Yard, the State Apartments are accessible on regular guided tours dublincastle.

Inside the apartments, the Grand Staircase leads up to the east wing of bedrooms and drawing rooms, refurbished to their eighteenth- and nineteenth-century style after a major fire in The brass chandelier in the Throne Room, with its shamrock, rose and thistle emblems, commemorates the Act of Union, while the Picture Gallery beyond is lined with viceroys, including — hiding ignominiously behind the door — the First Marquis of Cornwallis, who not only lost the American colonies, but also faced rebellions as viceroy, first of India, then of Ireland The tour also includes the Chapel Royal in the Lower Yard, an ornate Gothic Revival gem, and the excavations of the Undercroft, which have revealed the base of the gunpowder tower of the medieval castle and steps leading down to the moat, fed by the old River Poddle on its way down to the Liffey, as well as part of the original Viking ramparts.

As the takings were going to charity, ladies were requested not to wear hoops in their crinolines, to get more bums on seats. Elegantly displayed in high-tech galleries, the artefacts are used to tell the story of religious and artistic traditions across the world with great ingenuity. Though occupying the highest point of the old city, Christ Church Cathedral is now hemmed in by buildings and traffic and appears as an unexceptional Gothic Revival edifice.

From as early as the seventh century, there may have been a small Celtic church on these grounds, and in about , the recently converted Viking king of Dublin, Sitric Silkenbeard, built a wooden cathedral here. This in turn was replaced by the Normans, who between and erected a magnificent stone structure to mark their accession to power. Of this, the crypt, the transept which retains a few eroded Romanesque carvings , the west end of the choir and the remarkable leaning north wall can still be seen — as the church had been built over a bog, the roof collapsed in , bringing down the south wall and pulling the north side of the nave half a metre out of the perpendicular.

The original, around which the landlords of Dublin had gathered to collect rents, was destroyed by the sixteenth-century roof collapse, and had to be replaced with a fourteenth-century effigy of one of the earls of Drogheda so that business could proceed as usual. The chapels off the choir show the Anglo-Normans celebrating their dual nationality.

To the left stands the Chapel of St Edmund, the ninth-century king of East Anglia who was martyred by the Vikings, while on the right is the Chapel of St Laud, the sixth-century bishop of Coutances in Normandy. In extravagant contrast is a chunky silver-gilt plate, around a metre wide, presented by King William III in thanksgiving for his victory at the Battle of the Boyne in Its Victorian restoration, however, by Sir Benjamin Guinness in the s, was more sensitive than at Christ Church, and it has a more appealing, lived-in feel, thanks largely to its clutter of quirky funerary monuments.

Dublin has two Church of Ireland cathedrals because, in the s, Archbishop John Comyn left the clergy of Christ Church and built his own palace and church here outside the city walls, and therefore beyond the jurisdiction of the city provosts. The Door of Reconciliation by the north transept recalls a quarrel between the earls of Kildare and Ormond in Nearby in the north aisle of the choir, a simple black slab commemorates Duke Frederick Schomberg, who advised William of Orange to come to Ireland in but had the misfortune to be slain at the ensuing Battle of the Boyne.

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West of the Guinness Brewery lies the rather more salubrious area of Kilmainham where you'll find Kilmainham Gaol. Opened in , it became the place of incarceration for captured revolutionaries, including the leaders of the Easter Rising, who were also executed here. Its single cells ensured that they were forced into solitary contemplation, and since the building was constructed on top of limestone, their health was often sorely affected by damp and severe cold in winter. The ground floor display includes a mock-up of a cell and an early mug-shot camera, and there is a small side gallery showing paintings by Civil War internees and a huge self-portrait of Constance Gore-Booth better known as the Countess Markiewicz as the Good Shepherd.

The upstairs gallery provides an enthralling account of the struggle for independence with numerous mementos, old cinematic footage of Michael Collins and the letter ordering the release of Charles Stewart Parnell. The resulting liquid is diluted via the addition of water and then left in imported oak casks, formerly used for sherry, port or brandy, to mature for five to seven years, though some rare whiskeys are left 25 years before bottling. Adjacent to the distillery is an area christened Smithfield Village by developers. Much of the park is open space, sparsely dotted with trees, shrubs and wild flowers, though there are also areas of woodland and hawthorn.

Today seventy percent of the students are Catholic, and Trinity, though it also calls itself Dublin University, is actually just one of three universities in the capital: its main rival, University College Dublin UCD , part of the National University of Ireland, is based at Belfield in the southern suburbs; while Dublin City University is in Glasnevin. The main gates give onto eighteenth-century Front Square, flanked, with appealing symmetry, by the Chapel and the Examination Hall, which is the elegant, stuccoed setting for occasional concerts.

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In New Square beyond, the School of Engineering occupies the old Museum Building , designed in extravagant Venetian Gothic style by Benjamin Woodward under the influence of his friend, John Ruskin, and awash with decorative stone-carving of animals and floral patterns. Further on, in the northeastern corner of the college at the Pearse Street entrance, is the excellent, new Science Gallery. The books themselves are preceded by a fascinating exhibition, Turning Darkness into Light, which sets Irish illuminated manuscripts in context — ranging from ogham the earlier, Celtic writing system of lines carved on standing stones to Ethiopian books of devotions.


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Pre-eminent for the scale, variety and colour of its decoration, the Book of Kells probably originated at the monastery on Iona off the west coast of Scotland, which had been founded around by the great Irish scholar, bard and ruler St Colmcille St Columba in English. After a Viking raid in the Columbines moved to the monastery of Kells in County Meath, which in its turn was raided four times between and The calfskin folios of the Book of Kells contain the four New Testament gospels along with preliminary texts, all in Latin.

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List is empty. I want to travel:. Continue reading to find out more about Related tailor-made travel itineraries for Ireland. In-depth, easy-to-use travel guides filled with expert advice. Planning on your own? Yet even as the house crumbles, it is said that the apparition is seen staring through glassless windows.

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The derelict portion of the complex is said to be haunted by the desperate souls who ere condemned to live out their lives there. Paranormal investigators have seen ghosts of inmates and recorded their voices. Abhartach, the original male vampire — and arguably the first vampire legend in the world — is buried here, standing upright and upside down.

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When the drunken stranger collapsed in the morning, a servant removed his boots to reveal hairy cloven feet, and — later — hoof-marks seared into the floor by redhot feet. The sombre phantom music of an organ or harmonium can be heard emanating from the spooky ruins of this castellated Gothic fantasy built in with numerous heads of humans and animals carved into it and destroyed by fire years later. Also the location of numerous sittings of the banshee or Bean Si — fairy woman or the spirit of death — the house has been investigated many times by paranormal investigators and a TV show, Destination Truth.

A spectral foxhunt also haunts the grounds, led by a hunting obsessed horn-blowing Duckettte who is often seen in the neighbourhood these days. It was founded in by Richard Parsons, the ridiculously wealthy first Earl of Rosse and the first Grand Master of the Irish Freemasons, who gained a reputation as a sorcerer dabbling in black magic, using ancient Dionysian scrolls looted from the Great Library of Alexandria in He wrote a book, Dionysus Rising , and started the Sacred Sect of Dionysus to celebrate the joys of Bacchus and Venus, drinking and sex.

This later became the Hell-Fire Club, where giant screaming black cats were captured, caged and roasted until after four days the devil himself appeared to grant their wishes. This gaunt ruin is haunted by the menacing apparition of a red-haired girl, whose taunting cackles and screams are sometimes heard echoing from the walls. This is Red Mary, who dispatched her third husband by pushing him out a third-storey window and wed a total of 25 men, most of whom met early deaths in a similar fashion.

The sadistic Mary kept a harem of young men disguised as maidservants while torturing her real female maids by cutting off their breasts and hanging them by their hair.

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This psychopath was eventually sealed alive by the locals into a hollow tree trunk where she starved to death. Visited by the TV show Ghost Hunters and deemed haunted by their expert paranormal investigators, Seafield was the height of 19th century luxury until one of the sons, Owen, brought home Egyptian mummies from his travels, stimulating the interest of a particularly powerful poltergeist that would shake the house and shatter the ornaments. Terrified servants saw a menacing dark figure and Jesuit priests had to be called in to perform failed exorcisms.


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  • One of the Phibbs once fired a shot at IRA soldiers who were attempting to invade the house across the tennis court, which may or may not be as real a story as the dark figure seen wandering across the grounds and disappearing into Sligo Bay. In June , a photographs of the burnt-out and derelict castle were developed to reveal a person holding a sword and dressed in 18th c clothing, complete with thigh boots and hat, thought to be one of the Danish crew of the Golden Lyon, wrecked off Ballyheigue strand in the 18th c.

    Some believe the bullion is still buried there. Earlier residents, the Cantillon family, would leave their dead in coffins on the beach for the mermen to take.


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    To comment you must now be an Irish Times subscriber. Please subscribe to sign in to comment. Looking for a haunting tonight? Kate Holmquist. Seafield House, Co Sligo. The Abbey of the Black Hag, Co Limerick The Abbey of the Black Hag, Co Limerick Hidden in a secluded valley southeast of Shanagolden, are the remains of a medieval convent where the prioress, a lady of the FitzGeralds from Shanid Castle, terrified the local population with her use of the black arts and sexual practices.

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